When we couldn't figure out what to do for Valentines Day, we decided to use up an old airline credit and jet over to Italy to stroll the Piazzas, eat some Pasta and see the Pantheon. It was a perfect 3 day getaway and except for the rain/snow, I wouldn't change a thing.
Day 1 (Friday, February 10th)
We arrive in Rome around 2pm and check into Residenza Canali, which is right in the center of town and about 100 feet away from Piazza Navona. It was a super cute, clean hotel (without any frills) that was walking distance to just about every attraction. After dropping off our bags, our first order of business was to go to the Vatican Museums, which was only going to be open a few more hours until shutting down for the weekend. We were on a mission to see the Sistine Chapel, especially since I didn't get to see it the last time I was in Rome (2003?). Completely jet lagged and barely walking through all the snow and rain, we finally made it to Vatican City. The last time I was in the Sistine Chapel, I was only 9 years old so my memory of it was quite fuzzy yet I remember how grand and opulent it was, so I couldn't wait to see what my impression of it would be as an adult. After walking through all of the Raphael Rooms and seeing the gorgeous frescoes, the Sistine Chapel wasn't as astonishing as I remembered.
Raphael Rooms
Sistine Chapel
Don't get me wrong, its absolutely beautiful but I almost wished I saw it before seeing the Raphael Rooms, so I can be more wowed by its grandeur. When we got to the actual Sistine Chapel, we were so exhausted from a 9 hour red-eye flight, a 45 minute walk to the museums (did I mention it was raining and snowing?) and another hour walk through the Raphael Rooms, that we sat down and fell asleep. Yes, we sat against the wall of the Sistine Chapel, with our heads up and slept. The worst part was when I woke up and looked over at Gene and saw that his mouth was wide open. Talk about embarrassing! Thank god the Pope wasn't around! After a 20 minute power nap, we shuffled back (in the rain) to our hotel to freshen up and head out to dinner. It was only 7:30pm (1:30am our time) but we were starving and too lazy to really venture out anywhere, so we ended up at a local restaurant a few doors down from the hotel. Tre Archi da Loreto was highly recommended by our hotel manager and it did not disappoint. He also explained to us that in Rome, you should stick to restaurants that are closed between lunch and dinner because those are the places that are cooking the food (vs. frozen). After stuffing ourselves silly we walked back to the hotel and promptly fell asleep.
Day 2 (Saturday, February 11th)
We wake up and it's a gorgeous and sunny weekend morning and we are rested and ready to conquer the day. Downstairs (in the hotel) they were serving a typical continental breakfast consisting of pastries, cold cuts, cereal, fruit and yogurt. Being that I was pregnant and told to stay away from overly strong coffee and cold cuts, I had a moment of hesitation before saying, "when in Rome....". We started off our day by walking through Piazza Navona and then down to Campo de' Fiori , which is home to the yummiest looking farmer's market with fresh fruits, vegetables, spices, olive oils, pastas and anything your heart desires.
After buying some spices we walked to the Pantheon and then to the Trevi Fountain, where we both threw in some coins and missed. Yes, we missed the giant 20 meter wide fountain that was right in front of us. In our defense, it was windy and there was a barricade that didn't allow you to get closer than 30 or so feet. I missed because I didn't throw hard enough (which made Gene laugh hysterically) but Gene missed because he decided to show off by flicking the coin, just to have it land 10 feet in front of him. Guess who laughed hysterically then?!? Luckily there were many other idiots just like us as the outside edge of the fountain was covered with coins. A legend holds that by throwing a coin into the fountain, you are ensured to come to Rome again. I guess we will be visiting the outskirts of Rome.
After visiting the fountain, we stopped by Tazza D'Oro and had some shots of espresso that were so insanely strong that the liquid barely poured out of the cup. In fact, it was nearly solid and tasted like it needed a gallon of milk and a cup or two of sugar. When in Rome... Have no fear pregnancy police, I had a decaf. This also ensured me that I will be nice and sleepy for my afternoon nap which was soon to follow.
We were walking back to the hotel when I turn to Gene and see that he has a grin from ear to ear and his eyes light up like a kid in a candy store. I knew only one thing can make Gene this happy: fast food. Lo and behold there was a McDonald's just a few feet away and I can see Gene getting more excited by the minute. I knew we weren't going to get away without trying a cheeseburger or some other disgusting item off their menu, so in we went.
When we walked out of the restaurant, we were disappointed to find the sun gone and a snow blizzard in full swing. The flakes were huge and beautiful so we weren't too bothered by it and began our walk to St. Peters Basilica, where I was looking forward to climbing the 320 steps to the top of the dome. I remembered doing this as a kid and loving the adventure, so I was sure that as a 4 month prego I would enjoy it just as much. Sadly, the dome was closed due to the snow, but we were able to go inside the basilica and see "the greatest of all churches of Christendom".
A short cab ride later and we were back at the hotel to do our research before heading out to dinner. This time we picked Osteria del Pegno, which was a cozy little restaurant with dim lighting and romantic music. The gnocchi with wild mushrooms appetizer was very tasty but my sea bass was underwhelming. Gene had the veal and potatoes, and that was a great dish as well. I don't remember much about the desert but I do remember wobbling out of the place, so it must have been pretty good.
Day 3 (Sunday, February 12th)
It's sunny and gorgeous and the weather forecast expects that to be the case for the rest of the day. Finally! We head downstairs and eat the usual continental breakfast before heading out for the day. The list of places to see on our last day was even greater than before but luckily weather was on our side. We walk through the center of town and past the Chiesa del Gesu, Altare della Patria, Capitoline Museums, Capitoline Hill, Roman Forum and finally arrive at the beautiful Colosseum.
As luck would have it: CLOSED.We snap a few photos and continue our walk past the Arco di Costantino,Palatine Hill and Circus Massimo, until we finally arrive to the charming area of Trastevere.
I loved the character of this neighborhood, with its medieval houses, narrow cobbled streets and a ton of adorable restaurants. It was like the Cobble Hill of Rome (OK, maybe not quite). We roamed the area for a bit, took some more pictures around Santa Maria and then decided to grab lunch in the area. After looking on TripAdvisor, we found Osteria Ponte Sisto. This restaurant was so incredibly delicious that I am STILL having dreams about their deep fried artichoke and pasta. Seasoned to perfection, the artichokes were crispy and flavorful while the pasta was a perfect al dente with a creamy wine sauce and succulent mussels. drool.
Stuffed and exhausted we head back to the hotel to rest our feet and decide on our next adventure. Seeing that we visited every attraction on our list, we decide on the next best thing: SHOPPING! We walk about 15 minutes to Via del Corso and spend the next 2-3 hours shopping. Gene bought a bunch of shirts and sweaters and I stocked up on make-up, since it's way too depressing to shop for clothes while pregnant. After a long (and final) day in Rome, we decide to splurge on a nice restaurant (Ad Hoc) but after searching for 15 minutes we were unable to find it. Hungry and ready to eat each other's heads off, we stumble upon Al Duello, which ended up being fantastic. Our overall dining experience in Rome was really really good and I have to thank TripAdvisor for steering us in the right direction.
I love you!
LA FINE. CIAO.
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